Tea and Sympathy

I spent most of today in bed with a guy named Peter. Falk.

Yes, it was "Columbo" to the rescue again! If you'll recall, watching Columbo DVDs was the only social life I had during my stint in Gulu. I have the first 3 seasons with me here in Nairobi. The ones I bought with the Dutch subtitles are still in Uganda, with the Intern. He's living in Kampala now, preparing to marry his girlfriend Lisa at the end of the month. The Intern graciously offered to transport my stuff from Gulu to his new house in Kampala, and I'll pick it up when I head over there in next month or so.

Eventually, I will explain why I spent most of Monday in bed. But first, overall, I had a pretty nice weekend. My friend Jackie, the radio consultant I met in Gulu last year, lives in Nairobi with her husband and two daughters. On Saturday, Jackie and her younger daughter Molly gave me a day-long driving tour of the region. We started in an area called "Karen" (named after Karen Blixen, the "Out of Africa" lady), and hit the Crossroads Mall there.

I gotta tell you, I'm blown away by the upscale shopping developments throughout Nairobi! Sure, you can find makeshift roadside crafts stalls galore, and rotating Maasai markets where vendors display their gorgeous jewelry, art, baskets and carvings. But malls like Westgate, Junction, Crossroads and Village Market are actually better than many of the malls I've visited in the U.S. They're also obscenely expensive...I guess they're targeting the fabulously wealthy 3rd generation European/Kenyan landowners, or the Japanese and German tourists with deep pockets. I mean, I saw this stunning belt adorned with African copper talismans and coins in the Silk Road boutique at Crossroads....but I'd need a lobotomy if I were crazy enough to spend $700 on it.

Then Jackie drove me along Ngong Road, where you can get just about any piece of furniture you want custom made. Later we toured Peponi Road, or what we call "Puppy Road," because guys stand in traffic holding the most adorable puppies, bunnies and kitties for sale. God knows how many heinous diseases the poor little critters have, but they sure are cute to look at.

You can also buy the most glorious flowers you have ever seen in your life for next to nothing along Puppy Road, and throughout Nairobi. Right now, I have a dozen yellow roses and 2 dozen orange ones in vases in the apartment. I paid 300 shillings for the lot of them.....about 5 dollars. Trust me, I'm gonna have a steady stream of fresh roses, birds of paradise, gerber daisies, sunflowers...the works....throughout the next year.

Yesterday, I visited the Kiambethu Tea Farm in Limuru, about 20 kilometers from Nairobi. My group consisted of three women named Rachel and a woman named Mariah. The other 3 work for the U.S. Embassy. Rachel #2 (Naturally, I'm Rachel #1, since I own shoes that are older than the other 3 women) got to Nairobi after I did, and yet she handled her four wheel drive over bumpy back roads like a pro.

I never really thought about how tea grows before. I guess I figured it came on a vine, or even a tree. But the acres and acres of squat, vivid green bushes represented some of the finest tea grown in Africa. We got a "Tea 101" briefing from the charming 3rd generation British owner, whose grandfather grew the first tea in Kenya back in 1908. Then one her her Kenyan employees, Kimani, toured us through the lush farmland and the last acre of unspoiled forest land left on the property. That was followed by a delicious brunch, and an afternoon in front of the fireplace sipping the best tea I'd ever had in my life.

Sounds like a great weekend, eh? Well, somewhere along the way, I had to get all adventurous and try a beverage called "Tree Tomato Juice." I call it Nature's Roto Rooter. My stomach is still shredded from that misadventure. I woke up this morning cramping like crazy; guess I'm still dealing with the aftereffects of what Gulu did to my innards.

Hmm, maybe I'll lose 10 more pounds during this Nairobi stint! Not that I need to, after spending the past 4 months trying to explain to friends and family what the hell happened to my butt while I was in Uganda. I think I'll just stay away from stuff that's too exotic. After all, Rachel #2 wound up with a similar case of tummy trouble after eating at a Lebanese sushi joint named The Phoenix.

I mean, even I know better than that.