In July, 2008, I, Princess Rachella, Intrepid African American Girl International Journalism Consultant, pulled up stakes once again and headed to Nairobi, Kenya. Through my various adventures, I've concluded that if I get any MORE explosively fabulous in these prequel years to "THE BIG 5-0," I will have to register myself with the Pentagon as a thermonuclear incendiary device.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

The Girl from Ipanema


It is amazing what an extended bout of trichinosis can do for a woman's self-esteem.

I've spent the past few days walking around half naked on Ipanema Beach in Rio, and all I can say is, "Thank You, Gulu." Between the mosquitoes that drained half my blood and the mass quantities of pork I consumed to keep a minimal level of protein going on in my body, I finally feel confident enough to wear a bikini. At least the top part. My ass is still "Missing In Action."

I gotta tell you, I TOTALLY feel like "The Girl from Ipanema." I feel like the hottest thing since Jalapeno sauce. I feel beautiful, and strong, and confident, and ALIVE.

Maybe it's because I survived 8 months in Gulu. Maybe it's because today is the 4 month anniversary of my sister's passing. Maybe it's because I'm staying at my brother Peter's fully furnished, completely SWEET condo near the beach with my best friend Faith and another friend Jamila, and Jamila is a gourmet cook, and I've been eating pain perdu with fresh macerated peaches and spinach and chicken crepes for breakfast every day. Or maybe it's because for the first time in a long time, I feel HAPPY, and I don't feel like I need a reason to be happy, or that maybe I should apologize for feeling confident and at peace.

Whatever. One thing I know for sure after 3 days in Rio...there is no problem so huge and insurmountable that putting on a skimpy bikini top, thrusting your titties out and strolling along a beach can't solve. Especially if you do it in Rio. Granted, 90 percent of the men and women here are Amazons, which could really mess with your head if you let it. I mean, it's like cellulite and beer guts are punishable by 25 years to life down here.

But that other 10 percent? I've seen some nipples dragging their own trail in the sand these past few days. I've seen men with so many wrinkles and hide so leathery, they look like alligator suitcases with legs. I've seen some things most people should not have to witness, unless they're being punished for some unspeakable crime.

Yet I've seen those things tied into thongs, draped by bandeau tops, stuffed into speedos, and hiked into booty shorts, and strutting down the beach as bold and bad as you please. After a couple of hours, I started to feel like Halle Berry. No, I take that back. I started to feel like Rachel Jones, and that Rachel Jones was perfectly fine just the way she was.

So, a hearty "Bom Gia" to you all! I'll try to post a picture of me on the beach later today. I almost didn't recognize myself when I saw it. I've never seen myself look so much like myself before.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

An Attitude of Gratitude

I had grilled bok choy for dinner last night. Oh, and some rosemary and garlic roasted chicken, and some Israeli cous cous.

The cost of this meal from Whole Foods could feed a family of four for a week where I just came from.

I am so, SO glad to be back in America.

I'm also very much transformed. I don't think I'll ever look at my life, or my world, in the same way again.

More later, once jet lag clears and I've downed a few caipirinhas on Ipanema Beach....I'm headed to Rio on Friday.

God is good. Life is good.

Friday, February 8, 2008

Last Night in Gulu

It’s 3:48 AM on Friday, February 8, 2008. In less than 12 hours, I’ll be a former resident of Gulu Town, Northern Uganda.

I just woke up and couldn’t get back to sleep because so many thoughts are racing through my mind. Oddly, one of them was that I wanted to be awake when the rooster next door starts crowing. It might be the last time in a long while that I’ll hear that sound, and I’ve really started to enjoy it.

Now, after all these months of whining about being exiled over here, I’m not going to be a hypocrite and start waxing poetic about life in Gulu. It is harsh, sometimes boring, and more often than not incredibly frustrating. Even so, I’m really gonna miss the cozy little cottage, and the impossibly still mornings on the compound at Plot 26, Samuel Doe Road. I’m gonna miss hanging out at the open air Bomah restaurant on a rainy night, listening to the pelting drops on the thatched roof and knocking back a few Tusker beers. I’m gonna miss rollin’ with my buddies Akiiki and The Intern, and I’m gonna miss hearing the journalists we work with describe how the Internews training transformed their lives and careers.

But mostly, I’m gonna miss having so little to distract me from what matters in this world. You know, minor things, like.........THE FATE OF MY FELLOW HUMAN BEINGS. Once jet lag subsides in a week or so, there’ll be so many options back home, so much access to stuff that can entertain or distract me. For example, there’ll be the soothing pablum of morning TV, which can’t get through an hour of programming without an update on Britney Spears. But just the other morning, on a BBC interview program called “Hard Talk.” I heard author Studs Terkel drop pearls of wisdom so riveting, I let my coffee get stone cold. His comments invigorated me more than caffeine ever could.

It’s been truly marvelous having access to so many international news sources, because for the first time in my life, really, I feel as much a global citizen as I am a U.S. citizen. It’s amazing how knowing the intricate details of the Serbian presidential election and the rioting in Kenya and the winter weather emergency in China can make you feel less foreign, less of a detached observer.

This experience has transformed my life, too. Without question, I am a different person than the woman who arrived in Gulu early last June. I’m tougher, smarter, and less afraid to be who I am. I’m a LOT less worried about what people think of me. I’m a lot more willing to forgive myself for mistakes, and to applaud myself when I’ve conquered a challenge.

I guess I just LIKE me a whole lot more than I did when I got here!

In a strange kind of way, Gulu also helped prepare me for my sister Julie’s passing. I used to be convinced I would never survive losing her. But after spending the four months prior to her death being constantly tested, pushed harder and harder to make sense of things, having to reach inside my gut to summon courage I didn’t even know I had, I finally understood what Julie faced every minute of every day of her life. If Julie could keep going, and vow daily to never give up, or give in, then I knew I must try and do the same.

I don’t know what tomorrow brings, other than a flight out of Entebbe airport, headed to Amsterdam, and then another flight to Washington Dulles. I gotta tell you, so often these past few months, it felt like this day would never come. On those nights when I cried myself to sleep, and then cried myself awake, my heart pierced by grief and loneliness, I didn’t think I could make it to this day sane and functional. The jury’s still out about the former, but there's no disputing the latter. I am a survivor.

"Through the fire, fine metal is made." "What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger." Maybe that’s what middle age is all about….realizing that those so-called “tired clichés” are all irrefutably true, and that no matter how much pain and struggle you’ve faced in the past, it made you EXACTLY who you are at this very moment, and if you can honor and respect that, you’ll be one step closer to real peace of mind.

That’s where I am right now. I’m up for whatever life throws my way, because I spent the past 8 months in Gulu. Reaching that understanding has been the most rewarding journey of my life.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

"Oprah Light"


I went shopping today with Cissy and Stella, the 2 pre-teen girls I’m sponsoring this year as boarders at Mary Immaculate Primary School outside of Gulu. The headmaster, Sister Helen, had given me a list of items the girls would need when they report to Primary 6 on Monday.

As long as God lets me live, I will never forget the dazed gratitude on their thin little faces as Akiiki and I drove them from place to place shop for those things. First, the girls picked out two tin suitcases, with blue shapes stenciled atop the steel gray casing. Next, they got two twin foam mattresses and a set of sheets apiece…Cissy chose yellow, and Stella picked blue.

The girls would need 3 bars of bathing soap each, and 4 long, thin blue blocks of laundry soap. Cissy chose a 12-pack of pretty floral “knickers.” I keep forgetting about the colonial influence in Uganda, and I’m standing there scratching my head trying to figure out where the hell you’re supposed to buy knickers in the 21st century when Cissy handed me the package of panties. When I told Stella to pick out a pack, Cissy said, “Oh no, we will share these. Six for her, and six for me.”

I was floored. I mean, you just let some bleeding heart, deep-pocketed sponsor cart ME around Pentagon City Mall to buy whatever I want, and just SEE how many times I object to buying more than I actually need. Do NOT hold your breath, okay?? I’d be like, “Hell YEAH, let me get three of those bad boys.” But time after time, when I tried to suggest that maybe one set of pencils wasn’t enough, or that they might buy 3 fifty-cent towels instead of 2, the girls politely declined. “Two is enough,” they chirped.

For about 90 minutes, I was "Oprah Light." I will never feel as rich and powerful as I did this afternoon, watching those two excited girls pick out whatever they needed for school. Admittedly, the cynic in me expected them to spoil my charitable mood by asking for lipstick, or a purse, or maybe some glittery blouse that was totally inappropriate for a 12-year-old girl. I braced for the one request, the one furtive little glance or snicker behind my back that would unmask those girls as greedy little manipulators, and me as a hapless sucker with a target painted on her forehead. When, on WHEN am I gonna start closing my heart to sob stories and just let other people pull themselves up by their bootstraps like I did???

But then Cissy stopped in front of a stall that sold cheap polyester blankets with hideous designs on them. I’m talking one step beneath the “saucer-eyed dogs playing poker on velvet” scenario. The things made me itch just looking at them. I couldn’t help thinking those tacky little blankets would burst into flames if the sun shone directly on them; forget about a drop of candle wax or paraffin oil.

Watching Cissy and Stella oooh and ahhhh as they poked through the tacky textiles, I realized that we might as well have been standing in Neiman Marcus. It would take their families 7 days to earn the 7 dollars I would pay for each blanket. And for those girls, having something brand new, and just for them, was more than just a dream. Last year this time, as they prepared to return to school, they didn’t even have the 14 dollar fee to pay for both semesters. Now, they were on a shopping spree, buying new things they’d get to pack in their very own suitcases as they headed off to boarding school…..all expenses paid.

And oh, yeah, today’s shopping spree set me back a grand total of about $100.

I think I finally understand the real reason I'm sponsoring those girls. My mother’s mother’s name was Stella Jane. As I’ve already mentioned, Grandma Stella Jane crushed my mother Eloise’s dreams and ambitions for her future before they could even start to bud. My mother went straight from helping run a household with 8 younger siblings and two nutty parents in Philadelphia to Cairo, Illinois, where she would raise 10 more children and never, EVER get the chance to further her education, explore the world, define who she was and what she wanted from life.

So, dear Grandma Stella, with all due respect, IN YO’ FACE!!! Your granddaughter Rachel is making sure that one little girl who shares your name and lives in a mud hut with a thatched grass roof on the other side of the world gets to start the school year "living large and in charge."
I believe this will change Stella's life, and Cissy's life, and that they'll both start dreaming of the world outside of Gulu, and they'll get there one day, because they've already had this astounding miracle happen in their lives.

So, Granny, I hope that wherever your spirit is, it will find Mama’s spirit, apologize, and give it a big hug and a kiss on the cheek.

Thursday, January 31, 2008

The End....

Technically, my Internews contract is finished today, but I’m staying an extra week to wrap things up for the new Project Director.

Not surprisingly, I’m having some mixed feelings. I can’t decide whether my first meal back in the U.S. should be Thai or Soul Food. Last night, I dreamed about chocolate ice cream. A few nights ago, my dream about prime rib and strawberry pie was so vivid, I could literally taste them. And this morning, as I transitioned from sleep to consciousness, my first thought was whether I should buy a frozen pie crust or make one from scratch for the sweet potato pie I’ll inhale during my first week home.

I’m interpreting these thoughts and dreams two ways. First, I’ve lost so much weight that even I’M starting to worry about me. Folks tell me I don’t look skeletal, or anything, but I’m down to a size 6, from a peak of size 14 two years ago. In many ways, it’s kind of fun….I’m enjoying wearing tank tops and shorts without feeling absurd about the way my gut is spilling over the waistband, and the rather unsightly imprint my bra is making where it’s cutting into my mildly doughy back.

Next, I’m even more concerned about ANOTHER ending….my butt. It’s damned near flat now, and I don’t know how to deal with it! Even though I’ve been relatively slim most of my life, I've always had a rather bubbular rear end, compared to the rest of me. Because youth is wasted on the young, I never really took pride in it, or anything. I totally took my tushie for granted.

Nowadays, because I’ve lost at least a good 15 pounds over the past 8 months, my butt looks like a half-inflated balloon. There’s little to no curvature. It looks like one of those Pillsbury biscuits out of the can…flat, squooshy, and unnervingly pliant. There’s no bounce in my bum.

Maybe I’m not the best judge of the situation. Being the sex-obsessed piglets that they are, I’m sure 8 out of 10 men would say my booty is perfectly adequate for their purposes. The problem is, I’ve been living in Uganda, where for a woman, an ass is a true asset. I mean to tell you, I’ve seen some butts over here that have made ME gape, and I have NO desire to play for the all-girls team. (To use a phrase I absolutely adore from the TV Show “Girlfriends,” I am “strictly dick-ly.”)

Just yesterday, I was walking behind a young woman whose butt resembled 2 raccoons wrassling in a burlap bag. I was amazed she could even stand upright with that bodacious bundle. All of a sudden, I felt old and inadequate, because my entire butt isn’t as full and flourishing as HALF of her left cheek. I was depressed well into the evening (and couldn’t even do a few tequila shots to ease the pain, because my stomach is so messed up these days).

I figure this has to be why I’m having all these intense food dreams. Perhaps they’re desperate subconscious pleas routed directly from my butt to my brain. Though the aging process and gravity can’t be avoided, my ass is begging me to “not go gentle into that good night” of receding rumpdom.

I’m doing my part. I’ve already joined the obscenely bourgeois Sports Club/LA’s Washington, DC branch. It’s a bit pricey, but they were having a 75 percent off initiation fee promotion. I figure I can at least pretend to be a wealthy narcissist even if I’m not. I can also take regular yoga and Pilates classes, and stalk the elliptical machines, and do some leg presses that will tighten this jelly up a bit.

Besides, ready access to ice cream, cheese and great wine should restore at least 10 pounds to my frame within a month.

I know I must sound incredibly shallow and insensitive obsessing about food in one of the poorest countries on the face of the Earth. It must seem like the past 8 months had no effect on me whatsoever, which is definitely NOT the case. In fact, I plan on coming back to Northern Uganda often, to do journalism trainings and media consulting. I believe Internews has helped me find my life’s work; never again will I be able to take a job where I don’t feel directly connected to improving the fate of my fellow human beings.

I just need to know that while I’m making a difference in the world, EVENTUALLY AND FREQUENTLY, I’ll be able to connect with to my two favorite people in the world….Ben and Jerry. If that makes me shallow, then so be it. Just as long as my ass isn’t shallow.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Life is Only Short if Your Vision Falls Short

Remember my friend Euan, the one I wrote about last summer? He's the daring, feckless freelance photographer I met in July. I went to my first Internally Displaced Persons camp with him, on 7/7/07.

Euan's the charming 28-year-old Scot whom I consider the "pesky little brother I never had," as well as one of the most intriguing, intelligent people I've ever met. He came back to Gulu for a hot minute in November, and we stayed up till midnight slamming waragi and tonics. Euan and I just never seem to run out of things to talk about.

Anyhoo, Euan Skyped me today, and as usual, there's no aimless chit chat with that lad. He's back in London now, and headed out to capture some photo portraits of the city. He also said
he's missing Uganda, and doing work that gives him a greater sense of purpose. I definitely understand the whole creative fulfillment angle, but if the mate is missing Gulu, he needs to cut back on the crystal meth.

Euan also commented on my Skype tagline, the phrase that pops up near my picture whenever I'm signed into Skype: "Life is Only Short if Your Vision Falls Short." I wrote it shortly after Julie died, when it was impossible to make sense of things. However, in one still, quiet, anguish-free moment, I actually was able to believe that Julie's life actually wasn't too short, because she had strangled the energy out of every second she walked this planet. Julie lived fiercely, loved fiercely, fought pain and disability fiercely....she absolutely refused to miss out on anything.

Julie's personal vision of what she could endure ....AND triumph over.... never, EVER fell short. That realization made me conclude that, though my grief was bottomless, Julie had lived a full life. And she had lived it on her own terms.

Euan thinks my Skypeline is really cool....another sign of his immense maturity and astuteness, I'd say. But he also e-mailed me something that I think may be a gift straight from Heaven for a 46-year-old woman about to take yet another leap of faith into the next chapter of her life. His e-mail contained the essay, "On the Shortness of Life" by Lucius Annaeus Seneca. All I ever really knew about Seneca was that he was one of those ancient Roman philosphers who pontificated on stuff that actually made sense.

But I must admit that, at first, the essay ALMOST made a sister take her earrings off. I mean, just WHAT was Euan trying to convey with Seneca's opening phrase,

"It is a general complaint among mankind, Paulinus, that Nature is niggardly: " ???????

Why it always gotta be about race? But a quick tour through my online Merriam Webster reminded me that word means stingy, and not something I was going to wind up pimp-slapping Euan about the next time I saw him.

Anyway, I won't try to embellish or explain Seneca's profound words, because there's no way I could do them justice. But I do want to share them with all of you. That groovy ancient cat has certainly prepared me for the rest of my journey.

On The Shortness Of Life* By Lucius Annaeus Seneca *

*Seneca, a Spanish-born philosopher of Rome who lived in the first century A.D., was one of the prominent sages of the Stoic school. He's chiefly remembered today for his /Moral Essays/, a collection of twelve articles on various ethical themes.

"On The Shortness Of Life" is an essay addressed to a friend, and it is excerpted and condensed here from Moses Hadas' fine work, /The Stoic Philosophy Of Seneca/.

It is a general complaint among mankind, Paulinus, that Nature is niggardly: our allotted span is brief, and the term granted us flies by with such dizzy speed that all but a few exhaust it just when they are beginning to live. And it is not only the unthinking masses who bemoan what they consider the universal evil: the same sentiment has evoked complaints even from men of distinction.

Hence the cry of that prince of physicians (Hippocrates), "Life is short, art long." Hence Aristotle's grievance against Nature -- an incongruous position for a philosopher: Nature has been so lavish to animals that they vegetate for five or ten human spans, whereas man, with his capacity for numerous and great achievements, is limited by so much shorter a tether. It is not that we have so little time but that we lose so much.

Life is long enough and our allotted portion generous enough for our most ambitious projects if we invest it all carefully. But when it is squandered through luxury and indifference, and spent for no good end, we realize it has gone, under the pressure of the ultimate necessity, before we were aware it was going. So it is: the life we receive is not short but we make it so; we are not ill provided but use what we have wastefully.

Kingly riches are dissipated in an instant if they fall into the hands of a bad master, but even moderate wealth increases with use in the hands of a careful steward; just so does our life provide ample scope if it is well managed. Why do we complain of Nature? She has behaved handsomely; life, if you know how to use it, is long.

One man is possessed by an insatiable avarice, another by assiduous application to trifling enterprises. One man is sodden with wine, another benumbed by sloth. One man is exhausted by an ambition which always depends on the votes of others, another is driven over every land and sea by the trader's urge to seek profit. Some are plagued by a passion for soldiering, and are incessantly bent upon threatening others or anxious about others' threats.

Some are worn out by self-imposed and unrequited attendance upon the great; many busy themselves with the pursuit of other men's estates or in complaints about their own. Some follow no plan consistently but are precipitated into one new scheme after another by a fickleness which is rambling and unstable and dissatisfied with itself; some have no objective at all at which to aim but are overtaken by fate as they gape and yawn.

I cannot, therefore, question the truth of the great poet's dictum, uttered with oracular impressiveness: "Slight is the portion of life we live." All the residue is not living but passing time. On all sides we are surrounded and beset by vices, and these do not permit us to rise and lift our eyes to the discernment of truth but submerge us and hold us chained down to lust. The prisoners are never allowed to return to their true selves; if they are ever so lucky as to win some respite they continue to roll, as the sea swells even after the storm is over, and secure no release from their lusts.

Do you suppose I am referring to wretches whose failings are acknowledged? Look at the men whose felicity is the cynosure of all eyes; they are smothered by their prosperity. How many have found riches a bane! How many have paid with blood for their eloquence and their daily straining to display their talent! How many are sallow from constant indulgence! How many are deprived of liberty by a besieging mob of clients!

Run through the whole list from top to bottom: this man wants a friend at court, that man serves his turn; this man is the defendant, that man his lawyer, and that other the judge: but no one presses his claim to himself, everyone is used up for the sake of someone else. Investigate the personages whose names are household words and you will find they can be classified by the following criteria: A is B's sycophant and B is C's; no one shows solicitude for himself. . . Though all the luminaries of the ages devoted their combined genius to this one theme, they could never satisfactorily expound this phenomenal fog that darkens men's minds.

Men will never allow anyone to take possession of their estates, and at the slightest dispute on boundary lines they pick up stones and rush to arms; but they do allow others to trespass on their lives, and themselves introduce intruders who will eventually claim full possession. Nobody on earth is willing to distribute his money, but everybody shares out his life, and to all comers. Men are very strict in keeping their patrimony intact, but when it comes to squandering time they are most lavish of the one item where miserliness is respectable.

I should like to buttonhole one of the oldsters and say to him: "I see that you have reached the highest life expectancy and are now close to a century or more; please give us an itemized account of your years. Calculate how much of that span was subtracted by a creditor, a mistress, a patron, a client, quarreling with your wife, punishing your slaves, gadding about the city on social duties. Add to the subtrahend self-caused diseases and the time left an idle blank. You will see that you possess fewer years than the calendar shows.

Search your memory: how seldom you have had a consistent plan, how few days worked out as you intended, how seldom you have enjoyed full use of yourself, how seldom your face was unflurried, what accomplishments you have to show for so long a life, how much of your life has been pilfered by others without your being aware of it, how much of it you have lost, how much was dispensed on groundless regret, foolish gladness, greedy desire, polite society --- and then realize that your death will be premature."

Why should this be? It is because you live as if you would live forever; the thought of human frailty never enters your head, you never notice how much of your time is already spent. You squander it as though your store were full to overflowing, when in fact the very day of which you make a present to someone or something may be your last.

Like the mortal you are, you are apprehensive of everything; but your desires are unlimited as if you were immortal. Many a man will say, "After my fiftieth year I shall retire and relax; my sixtieth year will release me from obligations." And what guarantee have you that your life will be longer? Who will arrange that your program shall proceed according to plan? Are you not ashamed to reserve for yourself only the tail end of life and to allot to serious thought only such time as cannot be applied to business?

How late an hour to begin to live when you must depart from life! What stupid obliviousness to mortality to postpone counsels of sanity to the fifties or sixties, with the intention of beginning life at an age few have reached! . . . Among the worst offenders I count those who give all their time to drink and lust; that is the sorriest abuse of time of all. Though the phantom of glory which possesses some men is illusory, their error, at all events, has a creditable look. And even if you cite the avaricious, the wrathful, and those who prosecute unjust hatreds and even unjust war, these too are more manly kinds of sin.

But the stain upon men abandoned to their belly and their lusts is vile. Open their schedules for examination and note how much time they spend on bookkeeping, on machinations, on protective measures, on courting the powerful, on being courted, on obtaining or providing collateral, on banquets (which have now become a business routine), and you will see how little time their distractions, call them good or bad, leave them for drawing breath. . .

The only people really at leisure are those who take time for philosophy. They alone really live. It is not their lifetime alone of which they are careful stewards: they annex every age to their own and exploit all the years that have gone before. Unless we prove ingrate, it was for us that the illustrious founders of divine schools of thought came into being, for us they prepared a way of life. By the exertions of others we are led to the fairest treasures, raised to the light out of the darkness in which they were mined. No age is forbidden us, we have admittance to all, and if we choose to transcend the narrow bounds of human frailty by loftiness of mind, there is a vast stretch of time for us to roam.

We may dispute with Socrates, doubt with Carneades, repose with Epicurus, transcend human nature with the Stoics, defy it with the Cynics. Since Nature allows us to participate in any age, why should we not betake ourselves in mind from this petty and ephemeral span to the boundless and timeless region we can share with our betters?... In the meanwhile, while [people] are robbing and being robbed, while they disrupt each other's repose and make one another miserable, life remains without profit, without pleasure, without moral improvement. No one keeps death in view, everyone focuses on remote hopes.

Some even make posthumous provisions --- massive sepulchres, dedications of public buildings, gladiatorial shows, and pretentious obsequies. But the funerals of such people should be conducted by torch and taper light, as though they had in fact died in childhood.

JAN. 29 POSTSCRIPT: Golly, that's deep. Every time I read it, I can't help but think,

"Oh, SNAP!! Seneca just dropped some cold hearted shit!" But it's like manna for ANYBODY on the uphill road to wisdom, power and enlightenment....in other words, THE BIG 5-0.

Friday, January 25, 2008

The Party's Over.......

I think I’ve developed an ulcer. Which makes it all the more appropriate that February 8th will be my last day as Project Director for Internews Gulu.

I am sitting in the training room at Plot 21, Eden Road, Gulu Town, Northern Uganda, and I feel like somebody poured boiling oil down my gullet, and it’s roiling in my stomach like a witches’ brew. I’ve felt like this for about three weeks now, with severe nausea, to boot. (Someone asked me if I could be pregnant….sadly, that is NOT an option.)

Yesterday morning, I woke up moaning in pain. So I decided to Google my symptoms. Nausea, burning gut, no appetite. (Don't worry….I had blood and other tests too gross to describe in Kampala last week, and they cleared me of anything more scary.)

Actually, I wrote about this same feeling just before I was headed back to Uganda in mid November, following Julie’s funeral. At the time, I just dismissed the burning as intense grief pangs. But now I realize I’ve spent the past two years agonizing about Julie’s colon cancer diagnosis….and the past 20 or so years worrying about her OVERALL health challenges.

We were so close, I think I had sympathy pains that matched everything she felt. That’s GOTTA cause some corrosive action in the old stomach lining.

Obviously, living in Gulu for 8 months only made the gut-gnawing worse. Let’s see, during my stint as Gulu Project Director, I’ve had to fire a psycho slut, been threatened by a wild-eyed contractor and harangued by a vindictive nun, watched our studio be flooded, endured extremely poor access to email and phone communication, had my spine reconfigured bumping along the rutted roads of Northern Uganda, been virtually defleshed every single day by greedy, aggressive, American blood-addicted mosquitoes…….all while being responsible for a hefty chunk of US Federal Government money.

Let's just keep it real, people, I’ve never quite gotten the hang of balancing my check book, so managing a half-million dollar project would not crack the top ten of “Things Rachel Jones Performs Flawlessly.” In other words, I suck ass as an administrator.

But here's the thing. As I type these words, I’m leading a workshop about what’s in store for the hundreds of thousands of people who have spent the past 20 years in the squalid IDP camps of Northern Uganda. I’m trying to make the reporters embrace their role as interpreter of events. I’m pushing them to be more than just stenographers. I want them to tap into their creativity and create vivid images with their stories, to relish being the conduit of the hopes fears and aspirations of people praying for peace in a war-torn region.

Wow, I just impressed myself writing that last paragraph. DAMN, I’m good!! As a journalism teacher. As a mentor. As a drill sergeant. As a nurturer. As a visionary. As someone who can inspire the best in people. That’s why I’m not viewing this departure as an ending. It’s the beginning of a whole new chapter in my life.

It’s also the beginning of me swilling Cosmos like a drunken floozy very soon after I touch down at Dulles on February 10th. I’m almost embarrassed by how relieved I am at the prospect of leaving Gulu in my rear view mirror. Don’t get me wrong….I’m not talking about leaving the project, or the amazing people I’ve developed close friendships with. It’s going to be extremely hard to close the door on those things.

But it won’t really be goodbye, because I’ve learned so much, and grown as a journalist and a human being so much in the past 8 months, I’m fully prepared to morph into the role of media consultant for any of the groups working on the peace and reconciliation process in Northern Uganda. I expect to earn a lot of frequent flier miles traveling between Washington and Africa doing it, too.

And here’s the best thing of all….Internews is looking for a “roving trainer” of sorts, someone who would be based in an African country, but who would travel to all the projects across the continent to lead journalism workshops. I think I may have a shot at that gig. For a girl from Cairo, Illinois, that would feel like Dorothy chillin' at the Beauty Salon in the Merry Old Land of Oz. It would be such an amazing opportunity, if the funding is located and I were lucky enough to be chosen.

Meanwhile, back to my ulcerous innards. Or at least what I think are my ulcerous innards. I’m not looking forward to being one of those neurotic twits who swill antacid like Kool-aid, but I gotta do something about my gut. Having ready access to decent medical care will be an enormous relief. (And hell, my COBRA self-paid health insurance payments just went up, so I SWEAR TO GOD I’m gonna visit every doctor in the Kaiser Permanente Health System during my first month back in the States. I gotta get my money’s worth from the monthly reaming of my bank account.) The only good thing about this situation is that between grief and stress and a burning belly, I’ve probably lost about 20 pounds in the past 8 months. I’m also probably mildly malnourished. I also need to be exercising more, and to find a yoga or Pilates class to limber myself up. I’m tired of feeling like a 78 year old arthritic couch potato.

These are all things you pampered, spoiled Americans have been taking for granted these past 8 months, while I’ve been over here simmering in my own gastric juices. Well, shove over sisters and brothers, cuz Rachella’s heading home. It’s my turn to live like a shallow, materialistic, overfed narcissist.

Don’t hate the playa, hate the game! Rachella’s gon’ get her groove, and her guts, back in a couple of weeks. Y’all ain’t seen nothing yet!